Graham’s Grille

Pours Itself into Wine

January 18, 2010

If you’ve ever felt a desire to explore—or simply enjoy—the world of wine without the expense and highbred atmosphere that typically goes along with it, look no further. Peter and Lesley B. Fay, owners of Graham’s Grille by Lesley B. Fay, have decided to offer a more casual and affordable way to taste and experience some fabulous wines at their restaurant located just off the plaza.

The restaurant, which is approaching the completion of its third year in business, has recently extended its wine list to include more than 60 new wines, with several new varietals being added each month. “They are very moderately priced,� explains co-founder and executive chef Lesley B. Fay. “People can come in and try these wines without paying an exorbitant price.�

The wine list includes selections from around the world that have been highly rated by either Wine Spectator magazine or leading wine critic Robert Parker. “It is important for us to be attractive to those who enjoy wine and the best of wines,� Peter Fay says, who wants both wine lovers and novices to be comfortable to come in and explore the offerings.

The restaurant’s more uncompromising focus on wine extends from an already established standard that is key to the business. “The model of the restaurant is the highest quality food at affordable prices, and the same is now true for the wine,� Peter says. As owners, their intention behind the restaurant is to offer a dining experience that is warm and familiar, with creative and delicious but non-fussy foods. “Now, the wine has become a really major part of the restaurant,� Lesley explains. “We didn’t want to do it in a pretentious wine way or a really expensive way.�

The Fays want people to be at ease whether they are local or visiting, and they make great strides for the dining experience to be affordable, especially for families. There are moderately priced nightly specials as well as a kids menu, and the kitchen is gladly willing to accommodate modifications or dietary requirements such as gluten-free or vegan. “This is the place where you come and get treated like a king and pay like a peasant,� Lesley says. “We want it to be where people can come and be comfortable and not get financially clobbered.�

After spending the first of its three years in business “in the process of getting our act together,� as Peter Fay describes it, Graham’s has seen continually increasing success. “At the end of our first calendar year, which was last year [2008], we had a profit to be proud of. Most new businesses don’t make anything in the first three to five years—and with a restaurant, it’s even worse.� Peter shares how grateful they are to have achieved this, and how much it matters to them to be a part of the community and give back to it. Graham’s Grille supports several community organizations ranging from Stray Hearts Animal Shelter to the Millicent Rogers Museum, the Harwood Museum and a variety of local schools and churches. “We really involve ourselves in the community,� Peter says. “Everybody knows we’ve given a lot.�

But stability and success in Taos did not come easy. Having arrived nine years ago from California with Peter’s background as a merchant and retailer and Lesley’s professional culinary and pastry experience, the couple faced the challenge of sustaining a viable life in a small mountain town. Peter got involved with real estate and Lesley put her talents into interior design, which she continues to do on occasion. When Peter began having thoughts that the real estate market was going to face a downfall, they decided to open the restaurant.

To this day, the Fays put everything they have into Graham’s Grille. “We think we’ve achieved something we didn’t think was possible, which is to become one of the most successful businesses in Taos,� Peter explains, expressing the gratification that has come with so much hard work and setting the intention that people would want to come, relax and enjoy the restaurant. “The whole restaurant—the menu, the design—was designed for Taos residents,� Peter explains. “We have seen the love of Taos more than most people get the opportunity to see.�

The menu is created and executed by Lesley, who is in the kitchen five nights a week, and everything is made from scratch with the use of as many local ingredients as possible. But of course the restaurant couldn’t run without the 30 employees who commit themselves to making it a success. “I have a staff that I really like,� Lesley shares. “I want to be happy with the people that I’m going to see every day. I’ve got the crew I want and I’d be very sad if anyone left.�

When asked how she handles problems at the restaurant, Lesley says she deals with the situation as soon as possible, apologizing and taking ownership of any wrongdoing on her part, telling the person involved how disappointed she is, and trying not to drag anything on from one day to the next. “If I come in with resentment, it means there’s no joy in me, and I have to cook with joy.� She feels the connection between herself, the food she is preparing and the person it is being served to. “Food has such a nature of comfort and survival—and especially in a time of tough economics, people want to feel special and taken care of. I’m very grateful that I have a job that I really love, where I can use my God-given talents to make people happy—accommodate them and make them feel special.�

On or by May 1 of this year, Lesley and Peter will be publishing a cookbook that is being put together by a collaboration of local talent, from artists and writers to designers and photographers—all the aspects that the Fays feel it takes to make a truly great, professional cookbook.

Graham’s Grille is located at 106 Paseo del Pueblo Norte and is open seven days a week for lunch 11:00-2:30 and dinner 5:00-9:00. Tel. 575-751-1350.