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TAOS DAILY NEWS

Noodling Around

September 15, 2009


By Lynne Robinson

Hard to believe it’s already September! Soon the leaves will begin to turn and the dog days of summer will be just a hazy memory. The Farmer’s Market is still a cornucopia of goodness every Saturday morning, and if you are like me, you have been planning most meals around what you have found fresh there each week. There are times, however, when one needs to grab a bite on the go, and if you have been as spoiled as I have by the wealth of good produce available this season, it’s hard to bite into just any old thing!

There is a solution to this dilemma. If you have not done so yet, you still have a little time to try out some of the best noodles (and spring rolls) in town!

Until late October, Marshall Thompson will be manning his Noodle Cart at the top of the John Dunn Shops off of Bent Street. Having worked in several kitchens in town, moving from restaurant to restaurant, Thompson decided to branch out on his own this past summer and set up shop under an old red plum tree across from the Graham’s Grille patio.
At lunch time, a large crowd can be seen gathered around the cart, and when I finally made time to wait my turn, I understood why.

I first tried the rice noodles with a spicy peanut sauce. They were delicious. Al dente rice noodles with julienned veggies were coated with a traditional sesame oil and peanut dressing. Marshall had added a little hot sauce before sprinkling a few almonds and chopped cilantro over the works. I took them back to work with me and they were delicious.

A few days later I decided to try the avocado spring rolls. Yummy. The rice noodle wrap was fresh and not at all soggy, and the seasonings—just right. Ditto the seaweed salad, which I picked up on my way home one night when the weather felt too hot for me to think about making myself a meal. I have repeated the scenario a few times, adding the spicy peanut noodles (my favourite) to a rotisserie chicken from Cid’s for an impromptu dinner for four. Two servings of the noodles were plenty.

The food inspectors have harassed Marshall a couple of times this summer, claiming he doesn’t have access to hot, running water and other trivia. The fact is, the noodle station is kept impeccably clean and Marshall strictly follows code with regards to his attire—and his hands are always gloved in latex. One can only surmise that the complaints have been called in by various establishments that have felt threatened by the growing crowds around the noodle cart! It must not have been too serious, because the cart is still there, and will be for the next month and a half.

So pay no attention to what rumours you might hear, and zip over to the Dunn House complex next time you find yourself in town. Just look for the line under the old plum tree—you might miss the yellow noodle sign if as many people are gathered around as has been usual these past couple of months—and order up. The ingredients are garden fresh and the menu is simple but very satisfying. Best of all, a hearty meal can be had for under eight bucks. What a deal!

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