Indian Summer at Dragonfly Cafe

August 15, 2009

Having grown up in South Africa, which has the largest Indian population outside of the Mother Continent, Indian food is like green chili to this writer, i.e. soul food.

Among my happiest childhood memories are the annual holidays my family would take in Umshlunga Rocks, outside of Durban on the Indian Ocean. Durban’s massive Indian Market was on my mother’s “must do� list, and to me it was a doorway into another, very exotic world.  While my father (accompanied by my younger brother) would haggle with the rug merchants or wander off into the labyrinth-like alleyways, my mother would walk me confidently through the maze of passages, past women in saris leading their children behind them like little chicks, past the gold dealers and silk merchants, until we arrived at the spice traders’ section of the vast complex.

Mountains of colourful, ground spices released their pungent aromas into the already steamy air; hot, lush and redolent with the scent of the tropics.

“I’ll take five pounds of Mother-in-Law’s Tongue.� My mother would announce to her merchant of choice, after a cool appraisal of all the stalls. “And two pounds of Bunny Curry.� The former speaks for itself—hotter than hell, it’s the preferred blend of native South Africans who buy Samosas on roadside stands throughout the country, like Americans do fast food. My American father, who had first arrived in South Africa during his teens, prided himself on being able to eat like the natives who love the tiny, hot chilies that give the blend its fiery heat. Bunny Curry is mostly turmeric, cinnamon and cumin with a bit of black pepper, often used to introduce children to the delight that is Indian cuisine. Each year, a little of the hotter spice is added, while the kids are taught to chase the heat with milk or raita (never water) until they, too, become full-fledged vindaloo lovers!

As much as I love New Mexico’s chilies, I often bemoan the fact that I have to go to Santa Fe for Indian food, or make it at home, which I often do. However, I am at the end of my five-pound bag of MILT that was brought back from the Indian Market by my daughter Genevieve on her trip to South Africa a few years ago. This is a sad situation, which can be worked around with a visit to TaLin in Albuquerque, where I can and do buy spices that I combine into a reasonable facsimile of MILT ... But wait, I digress.

When a little bird informed me that the Dragonfly Cafe was serving Indian Food on Monday nights, I made a beeline over there.

My friend Toni and I arrived early and chose a table outside in the charming courtyard. Cooling, mint-infused water was poured immediately, which we sipped on while we looked over the prix fix menu. Karen Todd, Dragonfly’s owner, greeted us and informed us that the Monday menu changed weekly, depending on what she discovered fresh at the market. She also reminded us that Aug. 28 would be Dragonfly’s 10-year anniversary—an enormous accomplishment for a single mother/restaurateur in Taos!

The waitress brought a basket of pappadom and nan that was accompanied by a bowl of cucumber yogurt salad and hot mango pickle, which we polished off pronto!

One gets to choose three items off the menu (which is totally vegetarian friendly) and as there were, in fact, a total of six items, we ordered everything!

Huge bowls soon appeared before us, heaped with the three assorted curries on a mound of fluffy basmati rice, garnished with generous helpings of chutney, raita and pickle. The bowls were also sprinkled with chopped, fresh cilantro, a lovely addition.

I had chosen chicken in a creamy almond sauce, zucchini in coconut curry, and black-eyed peas with kale and red pepper. Toni meanwhile stared in shock at her bowl of curried beef with turnips, lentils and mung beans, and spinach with house-made cheese. We asked for two small plates and shared everything.

The chicken was my favourite. Sweet and spicy, it was subtly flavoured with cumin, coriander, and cardamom, which married beautifully with the almond cream. Truly exquisite. The zucchini in coconut curry was also delicious. The beef dish—obviously not pukka Hindi—was good, but I felt it could have had more of a bite; traditionally, meats—goat, lamb, etc.—can take more of the strong chilies than poultry or seafood. This is a minor complaint. The spinach was superb. In fact, Toni declared it her favourite upon tasting and also raved about the lentils and mung beans.

The raita was thick and creamy and the apricot chutney, just divine. Karen informed us that both the yogurt and chutney were also made in-house, the apricots picked from the tree behind the cafe!

For 17 bucks apiece, we ate like queens and, in fact, could not finish all of the food we ordered. Toni took home the leftovers, which were enough for two more meals! Unfortunately, this left us with no room for desert, a great pity as Karen is also a fantastic baker. By the time we left, the place was packed. Obviously, word is spreading about Indian Mondays, as well it should!

Dragonfly is open for coffee and pastry at 9am during the summer. Lunch is served from 11-5pm daily, except Tuesdays. Dinner is from 5-9pm. Beer and wine are available.