Embudo Station

July 15, 2009

I hadn’t eaten at Embudo Station for years, so when Busy McCarroll contacted Horse Fly about doing a piece on the newly acquired, re-vamped spot on the river, I happily volunteered.

Busy, an award winning singer/songwriter, has been a long-time resident of Northern New Mexico. Her husband, Baird Banner—the well-known recording engineer, drummer and studio designer—is one of a core group of Left and Right Coast hipsters who arrived here during the late ’60s and stayed. Chuck Banner, Baird’s brother, was co-owner of Taos’ infamous Return Gallery (now Twirl), together with David Hopper (brother of Dennis). Brad Hochmeyer, another member of this little band, owns KTAO Radio Station.

Embudo Station’s new owner, Alana Banner, has roots here. Born and raised in Northern New Mexico, Alana has inherited her parents’ musical talent but also has a serious passion for food service—perhaps due to the abundance of great chefs and restaurants in the region and the fact that Alana has traveled widely. She, like so many young people who have grown up here, has returned to bring a sophisticated, yet relaxed, elegance to her new home at Embudo Station.

The restaurant has been entirely redone, and Alana has brought a youthful, modern mix to the existing space. Latillas surrounding the bar have been painted silver. Mod accessories sit comfortably with old photographs of Embudo’s historical past. This was a train station, after all, that sits along an old stagecoach trail.

This is a perfect spot for a summer lunch or dinner. Choose a table on the beach, or if you’d rather be closer to the musicians playing under the decorated band shell—a glorious Guadalupe commissioned by Alana and painted by Busy—ask for a table on the patio.

Alana has planted extensive gardens, including grapevines and hops—she intends to experiment with wine and beer making—and while these mature, she is buying only local and organic produce. The menu is designed by El Monte Chef and James Beard Award recipient Jon Cox, formerly of Baileens and Hotel Hana Maui, where Alana also worked as concierge and wedding planner. Chef Robert Dejka hails from San Diego. He too worked in Maui, among other places, most recently Oregon.

I invited a friend to join me for lunch on a recent Sunday afternoon. We were greeted warmly by the staff and shown to a beachside table. We ordered glasses of pinot grigio while we looked over the menu and listened to the specials.

“If it tastes as great as it sounds, I’ll be happy,� K announced as he leaned back in his chair, perusing the scene.

A family picnicked on the opposite bank. Barbecue, deck chairs and fishing gear filled their little cove—a serious day camp. Their kids played in the shallows, oblivious to the cars speeding by above.

It was slightly overcast, but tables began filling up, and those already seated and eating looked satisfied. K and I decided to share a salad, which was one of the specials: spicy local greens tossed in a delicate vinaigrette and garnished with a nasturtium blossom. Delicious. Next we tucked into the baked Colorado Camembert, wrapped in flaky pastry and topped with mulberry compote. Sinful.

We shared the Tierra Amarilla lamb tacos with pico de gallo and habañero peach jam. The chunks of mango were a heavenly surprise. The lamb was tender and expertly prepared. We also split the local bison meatloaf sandwich. Caramelized onions and smoked sea salt gave it a complexity that took it a notch above the usual humble fare.

K had asked for a different veggie than the fries (very good) that were served with both plates. He was offered a choice between a slaw or a bowl of vichyssoise. I insisted on the soup, which was excellent—creamy with subtle flavor from the chicken stock and leeks—but could have been served slightly more chilled. A minor complaint indeed.

Busy came over to say hello and introduced us to Alana, who is drop dead gorgeous and, here’s the big news, only 25 years old. This young woman clearly has a bright future ahead of her. Baird came over too. K and I have known him and his brother for years. We all chatted awhile until our desert arrived and K was able to comment appraisingly. “I noticed her the minute we arrived,� regarding the young woman who had just moved on to talk to one of her customers.

We had ordered the mixed berry pie—baked fresh on the premises daily—à la mode, but Alana insisted that we also try her cupcakes, which are standard dessert fare at Embudo. The pie was perfection and so too were the delectable little cup cakes, one of which I gobbled without sharing a bite! Chocolate chili. They were great, just the right size for anyone watching their waistline but still craving a little something sweet! Obviously, I was not watching nor caring about any such thing as I polished off the last crumbs! A great cup of coffee was the perfect ending to this delightful meal.

As we left, we saw Brad Hochmeyer and his lovely wife Janet, seated close to the harp player who filled the air with ethereal music. Alana was hovering over her parents’ table—they were finally eating—and arguing with her vegetarian mom as to why she would not include guacamole on her menu. “It’s not local,� she insisted emphatically. Busy looked amused—a “This is my kid� kind of amused—as I smiled, understanding, and noting to myself that this indicated a strong and self-assured young woman who is not easily swayed from her vision. A sure mark of success.

It had begun to rain and the woman who had been watering the gardens rolled up her hose as we drove out over the bridge and headed back up the canyon. The drive was effortless, and the couple of hours spent beneath the cottonwood trees along the river felt like a mini-vacation—a perfect summer day.

Embudo Station serves lunch and dinner, Thurs.-Mon. Live music Fri., Sat., and Sun. The food is fabulous and prices very moderate. For reservations call (505) 852-4707.