Love Apple / Lula’s Cafe

Cheap and Chic

May 20, 2009

During the past few weeks, I’ve been approached by several of my readers asking—no, begging me to cover affordable, yet elegant places to dine out. Even in this fragile economy, it seems, people (yours truly included) still enjoy a night away from the stove and time out from their daily routine. Well, one does not need to spend a fortune eating out in Taos, as these three restaurants prove.

The Love Apple (which was reviewed here by Steve Fox, shortly after opening last year) is still going strong and no wonder! In fact, it is doing so well, reservations are advised.

On any given evening, the former church, which has been beautifully appointed by owner, Jen Hart, is filled with familiar faces. The food is local, fresh and simple yet sophisticated. The last time I ate there, a perfectly braised lamb shank, accompanied by garlic mashed potatoes and steamed greens, more than satisfied my picky palate. My companion ordered the poisson, which was perfectly cooked and delicious. We also shared a salad with local chevre and split a fruit cobbler for dessert.

The service is friendly and smart, and the owner, in all her fecund glory, a delight! Best of all, the prices are shockingly low; two can eat for fifty bucks, wine included.

Sheila, of Gypsy 360 and Maverick Cafe fame, has opened a new place in her old Arroyo Seco place. Talk about knowing how to keep a business going in dire times! Sheila is a chef with a wooden spoon in one hand and a briefcase in the other.

Her newest outing is a spin on Japanese. Sheila has long been one of Taos’ most creative and talented chefs, and is no stranger to the Western/Asian fusion she adores.

The duck sushi I recently ate there was beyond divine. Two generously thick slices of seared duck breast in a honey lemon glaze sat upon a mound of traditional sticky rice. Two pieces per serving cost a paltry ten bucks, seriously cheap for something so rich and decadent! We also ordered tempura prawns (to which the chef added slices of avocado—gratis) grilled chicken on skewers and miso soup. The bill was a mere $35.

Lula’s Cafe is another low-key spot that serves up home-style comfort food and fabulous sandwiches and paninis not to be missed.

At lunch, the place is packed with local hipsters who order the turkey with mashed potatoes, cornbread stuffing and gravy, knowingly. The plate arrives, and it’s enough food for two more meals, a steal at $13!

Try the paninis—the mozzarella, basil and tomato is a classic favorite—and the Greek salad with a pesto dressing many of you will recognize. No surprise—owner Sandy’s husband Dennis is the man behind Taos Pizza Outback.

Definitely leave room for dessert. The day I ate lunch there, I was overwhelmed by the choices in the front case. The peanutbutter/chocolate bars are pure heaven.

Kudos to all three of these savvy Taos women who understand the need for good food at reasonable prices, and yet are able to maintain high standards with both their menus and service!