Antonio’s

Restaurant Opens in New Location

April 15, 2009

Antonio’s has reopened in the wonderful historical building on Guadalupe Plaza that is rumored to have housed the town’s original brothel. There are stories about tunnels under the Plaza that led from the jail to this house of ill-repute, enabling the local lawmen to come and go unseen. The building, most recently housed Ronnie Lee’s but has been completely renovated and given a new face lift. The bar (serving beer and wine) has been moved to the side room, and the restaurant is a bright, open space that was packed the night I ate there. It promises to remain so due to the great prices and the courtyard that is certain to be a huge draw come summer.

My companions and I were shown to our table in the bar room, and although the service was slow, we decided to forgive them, due to the fact they had just opened a day or two before. The kitchen to table rhythm was not yet in the groove.

We ordered chips, salsa and guacamole to start, while we looked over our menus. The salsa had a chipotle smokiness, and the guacamole was made at the table, from a wheeled cart loaded with fresh ingredients. The chips, blue and yellow, were crisp and fresh, and we ordered a second portion along with our food.

I chose the enchilada marisco while others at the table ordered a yak burger, a yak ribeye, banana leaf wrapped roasted lamb and grilled salmon.

“Wonder if they ran out of avocados?� quipped one of my dining companions when our second order of guacamole took ten minutes to arrive. Still, the guacamole and chips prevented us from starving during the considerable wait for our food. By the time our dinner arrived, we were famished and fell upon our plates as if we had not eaten in days!

The cart finally arrived back at our table, and we were briefly entertained by the guacamole maker’s speed and expertise as he cut, de-seeded and mashed the fruit in a bowl, before adding chopped tomato, onion, cilantro and chilies.

“Perhaps they are skinning the yak?� suggested another, once the second bowl of guacamole was downed.

Complaints about the service aside, the food, when it finally arrived, was very good. Using locally grown veggies and locally raised meat, Antonio’s is committed to healthy, good quality food at affordable prices. The menu is extensive and none of the entrees cost more than twenty dollars—a real bargain these days and a smart move in this economy.

The enchilada was delicious. Filled with house smoked salmon, shrimp and crab meat all swimming in a cheesy sauce and a wonderfully piquant green chili roux. I shared it with the others while tasting from their plates, but next time, I’ll eat it all by myself!

Both the yak burger and steak were too chewy and slightly tough for my liking, but the sides of fries and house veggies were very good. The salmon was perfectly cooked and had a smoky flavor from the wood grill, complimented by the salsa I used as a sauce. The lamb dish was excellent. Unwrapping the banana leaf revealed a slow-cooked generous portion of tender, pulled lamb meat accompanied by rice, beans and a side of vegetables.

We ordered a tres leche cake to share after watching one delivered to a nearby table. It was huge and covered in whipped cream. Rich with dairy, it was the perfect ending to a meal that certainly satisfied our hunger pangs!

I’m certain the next time I eat at Antonio’s, the glitches will be ironed out, and the service will be smooth. I can’t wait to try the other dishes on the menu and am still dreaming of the flan I saw floating by on a tray, just as I finished my last bite of tres leche!